5 Ways to Fix a Loose Axe Head
To tighten a loose axe head, you need to create more pressure in the eye, so that the wood handle is tightly pressing against the inside of the head. This can be done with metal wedges, nails, screws, or oils. These fixes are easy and can last for years. But if it’s really loose, you may have to rehang the axe.
It’s important to try to fix any wiggle or movement in an axe as soon as you notice it. The more the axe is used while loose, the worse the problem will get. If the head is loose, it will impact against the handle with each swing, compressing the wood further and loosening the head more.
Do not use tape to “fix” an axe. I come across them all the time, and it is not a good idea, and not safe. Please don’t do it.
If the handle is bad enough, you may just have to replace it. I have a guide on where to find good axe handles (I like Whiskey River).
This is just a hobby. When you buy through a link, I may earn a commission to support the site.
Tighten an Axe with Wedges
If you don’t want to go to all the trouble of rehanging a loose axe, this is the way to fix it.
Step and barrel wedges are designed specifically for tightening the hold of wooden tool handles. The metal wedge will dig into the wood and add outward pressure in all directions. I like step wedges, as they are easier to use than barrel wedges, but they both do the same thing.
Step wedges should be hammered in at an angle to better distribute pressure, and depending on the looseness, you can place a single wedge in the middle, or two edges for extra pressure.
It’s also best practice to heavily oil the eye with boiled linseed oil to additionally swell the wood fibers and prevent the wood from drying out (might as well oil the whole handle while you are at it).
How to install a step wedge:
- Oil the eye with boiled linseed oil to prevent cracks
- Place the wedge at an angle to disperse pressure when installed
- Hammer the wedge most of the way in
- Use a punch for the final strike to avoid hitting the wood
I typically use a 1/2″ or 15/32″ for full-size axe eyes. But there are larger or smaller as needed. Many axes today come with a metal wedge installed at the factory, so you might need smaller ones to work around the existing.
Common Step-Wedge Size Chart:
| Size | Width | Length |
|---|---|---|
| #3 | 1/2″ (15/32″) | 1 -1/16″ |
| #4 | 3/4″ | 1 -1/16″ |
| #5 | 1″ | 1 -1/16″ |
One caution for wedges: if you use wedges and the axe loosens again, you will likely need to rehang the axe – and the wedges will make that hard. You will have to dig them out and likely damage the top inch of the handle, so you may need to get a new handle.
However, wedge fixed axes can last years if not decades. So don’t let that disuade you. Wedges are easy to find in kits at the hardware store (often with a wooden wedge as well), or Amazon offers multipacks with mixed sizes if you don’t know what you need.
Improvised Wedges
Sometimes called a “grampa wedge”.
If you don’t have step wedges on hand, it’s totally fine to improvise. I have seen pennies, dimes, washers, and oddball pieces of metal used – and often they do the trick.
Nails are by far the most common filler used instead of a wedge to tighten an axe head. Everyone has them already; they are long, and they can fit around existing wedges easily. The only downside is that a single nail won’t add that much pressure, so you often need to add 2,3,4 or more.
Screws can be used – and are usually thicker than nails (adding more pressure). But I don’t use them because they are harder to get in all the way. You will usually end up with a portion of the screw popping out of the top. But if you have a bench/angle grinder, you can take the top off and make it flush.
Oils That Swell the Handle
Swel-Lock Oil Fix
Swel-lock is a product designed specifically to expand wood grain. It was designed for fixing things like old wooden chairs, but it can also expand the wood of an old axe handle and tighten the head.
There are also instructions out there for how to make your own out of antifreeze – but I’ve never tried it (and don’t plan to).
Boiled Linseed Oil
If the axe just has a tiny hint of movement, and the handle is in good condition, soaking the eye in boiled linseed oil could solve the problem.
Oil alone likely won’t fix a loose axe head, but as the oil soaks into the handle, it can expand the wood fibres and tighten the hold enough to fix a very slight wiggle.
When oiling the eye, I typically create a “cup” out of duct tape and repeatedly fill it with oil until the handle stops absorbing it. The end grain at the top of the handle will act like a straw and absorb it quite quickly at first. You can also stand the axe head down in a tub of oil if you have enough.
Water Fix in the Field
You can soak the axe in water for short-term swelling of the wood to tighten the head. This should only be done if you are out in the field and can’t fix the axe properly before using it.
When you swell the wood with water, the fibers will shrink again as the wood dries, which can lead to more dramatic damage as the evaporating moisture can leave the handle more dried out than when you started.
And if the handle repeatedly swells and shrinks, it can damage the fibers in the wood, making it even more loose.
If you do have to do this in the field, just make sure to heavily oil the eye as soon as you return, and then look at any of the other previous mends to do it properly.
Re-hang the Axe
You are going to hit a point where there isn’t room for any more nails or wedges. Or sometimes the handle is just cracked, broken, or compromised. That’s when you will need to rehang the axe.
If the head appears to be sitting on a flat “shelf” like the picture above, you will need to rehang it. If the handle is in otherwise good condition, you can sometimes get the head off without ruining it and use it again. However, often you will need a new one.
If you need a good new handle, the nicest store-bought handles I have ever used came from Whiskey River axe handles. But there are other places to get good axe handles.
How to Re-Hang an Axe:
The key to hanging an axe head is to shape the handle to fit the eye snugly, without sitting on a ledge. If the head is sitting on a ledge, it will start to loosen the handle again quickly as the wood fibers get compressed by use.
1. Choose a handle: Select a handle that is the right length and width for your needs. The eye (end of the handle) should start slightly larger than the hole in the axe head.
2. Fit the axe head: remove material from the handle eye with a drawknife or rasp until the axe head fits onto the end. It should fit snugly and be centered on the handle.
3. Secure the axe head: Once the head has been fitted, a wood wedge is hammered into the slot at the end of the handle (the kerf), pressing the handle against the head, locking it in place.
Then, if you want, you can do any of the steps from earlier to lock the handle into place even tighter (like by adding metal wedges).
Once you are done, be sure to fully oil your handle (see how to here) and store it properly (full guide here) to keep it strong and reduce the chance of the new handle loosening.
Please comment below if I missed something or if you have any questions. I do my best to respond to everyone.
About the author:
About the author:
Jim Bell | Site Creator
I’m just a guy who likes axes. I got tired of only finding crap websites, so I set out to build a better one myself.
I’m also on Instagram: @axeandtool
Hi Jim,
I just discovered this website and I love the information….I am realizing I have a lot to learn :). I have a Dave Canterbury American Felling Axe I got about 2 years ago (and unfortunately stored in garage until now after reading your website, I live in New Hampshire with cold winters).
I have been working on a large pine tree that fell on our property for past month or so and I just noticed the head has slid up about 1/2cm along the haft. Now the metal head is above any wood, but it doesn’t appear loose, at least not to the point where I can wiggle it myself. Aside from starting to oil it and store properly would that be something I should consider “loose” and take one of these steps here (I would probably use nails)? Thank you 🙂
Hey Michael, even if it’s tight now – it certainly came loose to move that far up the haft. It’s probably still safe to use, but I would try and fix it (better safe than sorry).
What you can do is:
1. Sand any visible ledge where the head used to sit, so you can get a new tight fit
2. Turn the axe upside down and whack the bottom of the handle with rubber or wood mallet (not metal), to reseat the head on the shoulder.
3. Add wedges, metal (whatever you want) to tighten the hang
4. Oil that sucker like crazy
Hope this helps
Ok great!! thanks so much. I will give all that a try. I appreciate it.
Hi Jim,
It worked wonderfully!! thanks so much
Wicked! Glad to hear it.
Hello Michael, I have a storage question for axes. I live in western Tennessee. My shop is built on a concrete slab, but due to type of construction, adding drywall and insulation to attic/ceiling would be difficult. I try to keep the windows closed when humidity is high, which is most of the time. In your opinion, what is the best way to keep my axe heads and other metal tools from rusting? I’ve tried cleaning the heads really well and then spraying shellac on the metal to keep from oxidizing, but this only works for a while. I feel there must be a better way to protect the equipment. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I have had good luck using paste wax (axe wax), it goes on thicker than oils and can be rubbed into the nooks and crannies (it’s good for wood too). Like anything, it will need to be reapplied with use.
Another thing that can help is tool bags, or even just covering them with a towel or fabric cover. Some sort of barrier that stops most of the moisture in the air from settling on the tool. This is especially helpful stopping condensation during temperature changes. Although it can be a little annoying, and doesn’t work with every setup.