How To Use Axe Wax (handle, head, and sheath)

Axe wax is a great finishing step that can add protection to every part of an axe and smooth the grip in hand. 

Do you need axe wax?

Axe wax is not essential. Thorough oiling of the handle and the head is all that’s needed. Boiled linseed oil has hardening agents that will create a protective layer in the wood and on the metal. Axe wax creates an even tougher and water repellent barrier that is more durable. 

Wax is useful if your axe will be spending a lot of time exposed to the elements (like on multi-day trips). Moisture can be hell on wood. It only takes the condensation from a night out to start expanding the grain and penetrating the handle.


Choosing an axe wax

Any form of paste wax will work as an “axe wax”, but I always suggest you make your own axe wax – it’s so much cheaper (and fun), and you can customize it to your liking. The hardness of wax will determine how it’s best used.

I have an article to make axe wax, with ratios to make hard, medium, or soft wax.

Medium wax is your standard paste wax, and it works on every part of the axe. The head, the leather, and the handle. Any store-bought wax in a tin is going to be a medium wax.
– Oregon Axe Wax
– Minwax Paste Wax
– Butcher block wax

Hard wax is the best for metal surfaces. It leaves a tough barrier that won’t rub off easily. It can offer the most protection on the handle, but it takes more effort to work into the wood. Hard wax is something you are going to need to make yourself (it’s easy).

Soft wax is good for leather and wood and is easy to work in. It will absorb easily but it’s not as durable, and won’t improve the feel as much. Squeezable cutting board waxes are soft, convenient, and can double as an axe wax.


Waxing an axe handle

The handle of an axe should be well oiled before adding wax. It is not a substitute. The wax will seal in the oil and help prevent moisture and dirt from penetrating the wood.

I have a step-by-step guide for oiling a handle that leaves a handle silky smooth, especially when paired with wax.

1. Rub wax vigorously into the handle. 
It’s important to do this with speed to create heat with friction. This will soften and melt the wax, allowing it to deep into the wood grain. The handle (and your hands) should be wet to the touch with wax.

I’ve started to avoid waxing the eye of the axe so that it can always be oiled. If you’ve soaked it in oil already it’s probably fine to wax too. 

Tip: plug any gaps around the hand with wax to prevent rust from getting on the inside.

2. Let the wax cool and harden.
Put the axe aside and let the wax seep in and harden as it cools. Let it sit for at least 20 min, but an hour is better. It will likely still feel wet to the touch and that’s okay.

Note: if you are using Minwax double-check their instructions (drying time may vary).

3. Buff away excess wax.
Wipe the handle dry with a lint-free cloth (like a blue shop towel). Use pressure and go quickly. You should set the axe aside again so any remaining soft wax will harden.

4. Repeat as needed.
I often do this process twice for a new axe or handle and then just as needed from then on. The wax will wear off with use or prolonged exposure to the elements.
It won’t completely stop the elements from affecting your handle, but it’s your best defense. 


Waxing the head

Wax makes a great long-term rust protectant. It will harden into a much tougher protective layer than any oil. 

Hard wax works best for metal, and it can be used for so many more things than just axes. Knives, saws, draw knives, any tool. 

I make small pucks that can simply be rubbed onto the metal (at home or in the field). Medium wax works well too, just a little messier and better for the shop. Soft wax doesn’t harden enough to stick to the metal so I stick to medium or harder.

With medium wax just do the same process as the handle (you should do them at the same time). The head should only need one coat though.

With hard wax just rub the puck across the metal surface, using your fingers to get the wax into any grooves or pitting.

Let dry and wipe away with a clean rag (shop towels might not cut it). 


Waxing the leather sheath

The top sheath has been waxed, and the water forms droplets without absorbing into the leather. The bottom sheath is uncoated and the droplets started to seep in quickly.

Waxing a leather sheath (or mask) is quite easy with axe wax (or any paste wax) and is a good idea for outdoor tools. The axe wax will moisturize the leather some, but more importantly, it adds a water-repellent protective coating.

An untreated sheath will absorb water and trap it, holding it against the steel (which is bad). Once waxed, water will bead and roll off instead of immediately starting to soak in.

Medium or soft waxes are best for leather ( they are easier to work in). They seep into the pores and wipe away cleanly afterward. Harder waxes still work, need more effort to work in and clean off.

If you have a leather conditioner, give the sheath a good coating before adding the wax. This is just like oiling the handle before waxing. Apply to the interior and exterior and leave to soak in before wiping away excess. I use Fiebing’s Aussie Conditioner (which adds some waterproofing itself).

1. Work the wax into only the exterior of the sheath by hand.
Rub vigorously to create some friction and soften the wax so it can soak into the leather.

I only wax the exterior of the sheath. It protects the outside from the elements and leaves the interior natural so that the sheath can still be conditioned.

2. Leave the wax to soak and dry for at least 20-60 minutes.

3. Wipe away the excess wax with a lint-free cloth.
For harder waxes, you may need to do some more rubbing by hand to warm up the extra wax and wipe it away. That’s it. One pass should do.

If I missed something or you have any questions, feel free to leave me a comment below. I do my best to respond to everyone.


About the author:

I’m an amateur outdoorsman who loves axes – as a tool, the craft of restoring them, and the history. I got tired of only finding crap websites, so I set out to build a reliable one myself.

Jim B. – Owner, Creator


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